Amalfi Coast
Jump on a Vespa and ride along the most beautiful natural coastline. Home to my Nonna and Grandpa, the eastern end of the Amalfi Coast and port city - Salerno. Looking for an Italian singer to listen to on your ride - Eros Ramazzotti and Zucchero are family favorites. Mangia Mangia as Nonna would say - eat up!
Italo train - super fast and connects Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, and Naples.
Naples
Rent a car or hire a driver to get from Naples to the coast. Watch “Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy” before you go! Episode 1 features Naples and the Amalfi Coast.
Attractions
S.S.C Napoli - catch a Napoli soccer game
Procida - featured in one of my favorite movies, The Talented Mr. Ripley
Ischia - thermal baths and castello aragonese d’Ischia
Climb Mount Vesuvius - can also bike it
Naples Underground - WW2 bunkers
Caserta Royal Palace and Park - rent a car, hire a driver, or take the train
Herculaneum - vast ruins from the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, more preserved than Pompeii
Pompeii - city buried under meters of ash, most famous historical site
Capodimonte - royal palace and art museum
Palazzo Reale - royal palace of Naples
Naples Subway - murals and street art, colorful and eye-catching
Gran Caffe Gambrinus - stop in for a coffee, cafe features contemporary art
Food
Old City - small windy streets, “Spaccanapoli”, watch for pickpocketing
Quartieri Spagnoli - spanish quarter, lively music and nightlife, famous margarita pizza from queen margarita
Nennella - long wait put name in, pasta e patate, classic neapolitan dish
Brandi - pizzeria
Umberto - pasta alla Genovese, a Naples specialty
Gambrinus Cafe - pastries, the sfogliatelle is Grandpa’s favorite
Positano
A colorful cliffside village along the Amalfi Coast.
ACCOmMODATIONS
Il San Pietro - most amazing tennis court
La Sirenuse - centrally located, lunch on the terrace is a must
Eden Rock - so charming, 5-minute walk to the beach
Various boutique hotels and bed and breakfasts
attractions
Music on the Rocks - live music and bars along the beach
La Scogliera - a little corner of paradise, one of the best beach clubs, book in advance!
Ceramica Assunta - handmade pottery shop
Path of Gods Hike - 3 1/2 hours plus 1 hour of steps
Begins in Agerola - need a driver to get there
Ends in Nocella - right above Positano!
Signs will direct you down to Positano - 1 hour downhill, 1000 steps, bring good shoes
Food
Le Tre Sorelle - on the beach serving homemade pastas, great for lunch or dinner, ask for Michael - owner of the restaurant
Chez Black - right next door in case of a wait at Sorelle
Da Adolfo - arrive by boat
Positano Hotel Buca di Bacco - also on the beach with the same view
Amalfi
Drive the winding seaside roads and visit the charming pastel-colored town of Amalfi.
Accommodations
Hotel Santa Caterina - beautiful hotel on the cliff, also shares my Greek name Katerina, amazing views from the terrace
Monastero Santa Rosa - originally a Dominican monastery from 17th C, above the fishing village of Conca Dei Marini
Borgo Santandrea - overlooks Conca dei Marini
Praiano - up on the mountains between Positano and Amalfi, more affordable, beach access
Attractions
Valle delle Ferriere - 3 hour hike, waterfalls, easily reachable from the center of Amalfi
Duomo di Amalfi - medieval Roman Catholic cathedral, dedicated to the Apostle Saint Andrew
Piazza Duomo - grab an espresso and people watch in the town square
Torre dello Ziro - 2 hour hike, old watchtower that was once used to spot pirate ships, panoramic views
Fiordo di Furore - while traveling from Amalfi towards Positano make sure to look down at the most picturesque, quaint beach in between the cliff
Food
Da Gemma - reservations only, open at 7
La Tonnarella - arrive by boat in Conca Dei Marini, Jackie Onassis adored this little spot
Ravello
3 miles of mountain roads above Amalfi and known for its cliffside gardens and vineyards. Recommend a day trip.
Accommodations
Caruso - a Belmond Hotel, former 11th-century palace set on a cliff edge 1,000ft above sea level
Villa Cimbrone Hotel - so charming, The Vuilleumier family preserves and protects the original architectural and decorative features from the 12th century
Palazzo Avino - overlooks some of the coast’s most picturesque fishing villages
Ravello has so many cute and quaint villas!
attractions
Villa Cimbrone Gardens
Villa Rufolo
Atrani Walk
Duomo di Ravello
Ceramiche d’Arte - beautiful ceramic pieces by Pascal, ships worldwide
The Ravello Festival - one of the oldest and most renowned festivals in Italy
Castiglione Beach - below Ravello
Food
Trattoria Da Cumpa’ Cosimo - great family style restaurant serving homemade pastas
Villa Cimbrone - eat on the terrace, great views
Capri
Pure romance. Sail around the rock formations and swim in the Blue Grotto!
Accommodations
Grand Hotel Quisisana - a Novi favorite
Excelsior Parco - 11 rooms furnished in Art Nouveau style
J.K. Place - boutique hotel, spa, and restaurant
Tiberio Palace - a few steps away from the Piazzetta
La Minerva - quaint and quiet in the center of Capri
Attractions
Food
Capri shops - Via Vittoria Emanuele, Via Camerelle, and Via le Botteghe, save your Euros for the best shopping!
Piazzetta - heart of the town
Gardens of Tiberius - view the Capri’s dramatic Faraglioni, rock formations
Blue Grotto - sea cave with the most illuminating blue reflection
La Fontelina - beach club
Da Luigi Ai Faraglioni - beach club
Villa Verde - late night dancing
Ristorante Faraglioni - best linguine and clams you’ll ever have!
After lunch, turn right out of the restaurant - check out the cutest lemon ice stand, Limoni Di Capri
Just before the beautiful Augustus gardens stop at Hotel Luna - grab an espresso or cocktail at Capri Rooftop Lounge Bar with a view over the Faraglioni
Salerno
I have the best memories with my Nonna in her birthplace. We would grab an espresso and walk along the lungomare every morning and look at the coast. Then, we would go visit her sisters Zia Vera and Zia Carla and have lunch with all the cousins on Zia Carla’s terrace.
Accommodations
Hotel Montestella - great location and very affordable
If your home base is Salerno, going west along the coast you will first stop at Vietri, known for ceramic cups and plates, Maiori, known for its beaches, and then the city of Amalfi, Praiano, and Positano, respectively.
Transportation for day trips
Water taxi - fastest
Vespa - adventure like a real local
Rent a car - hope you’re a good driver!
SITA bus - stops in each village
attractions
Costello - castle overlooking the city
Lungomare - morning and evening walks along the promenade, Nonna’s haven
Corso Vittorio Emanuele - main shopping area
Portanova square - stop at Nettuno for brioche con gelato
Farmers market - call Zia Carla on your way!
Antica Cappelleria di Russo Anna e Russo Giosuè - amazing hats and fedoras
Food
Sabatino's - pizza for breakfast, just off the corso and down the stairs
Ristorante Cicirinella and Maialino Rosso - 2 doors down frome each other, same owner
Nettuno - gelato
Pantaleone - pastry shop on via mercante
Sapporito Bar - across the street for coffee
Via Roma - late night bar scene
Salumeria del Corso - great panini on the go to the train station, John recommends the mortadela
Drogheria - aperitivos and drinks on via mercante
Spuntino - seafood pasta dish
Re Gusto - my cousin Claudia’s, affordable italian street food to go
Lal Trolato - wine bar in the rotunda
La Posteria - cheese, meats, and delicious wines!
South of Salerno
Paestum - day trip to the Greek temples and sandy beaches
Bartolli Mozzarella Farm - Gavaretti side of the family started it
AMALFI Style
Pastel colors to match the pastel-colored towns
Sun hats
Linen dresses and flowy skirts
Swimsuit for the beach
Sneakers for sightseeing