Amalfi Coast

Jump on a Vespa and ride along the most beautiful natural coastline. Home to my Nonna and Grandpa, the eastern end of the Amalfi Coast and port city - Salerno. Looking for an Italian singer to listen to on your ride - Eros Ramazzotti and Zucchero are family favorites. Mangia Mangia as Nonna would say - eat up!

Italo train - super fast and connects Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, and Naples.

 

Naples
Rent a car or hire a driver to get from Naples to the coast. Watch “Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy” before you go! Episode 1 features Naples and the Amalfi Coast.

Attractions

S.S.C Napoli - catch a Napoli soccer game

Procida - featured in one of my favorite movies, The Talented Mr. Ripley

Ischia - thermal baths and castello aragonese d’Ischia

Climb Mount Vesuvius - can also bike it

Naples Underground - WW2 bunkers

Caserta Royal Palace and Park - rent a car, hire a driver, or take the train

Herculaneum - vast ruins from the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, more preserved than Pompeii

Pompeii - city buried under meters of ash, most famous historical site

Capodimonte - royal palace and art museum

Palazzo Reale - royal palace of Naples

Naples Subway - murals and street art, colorful and eye-catching

Gran Caffe Gambrinus - stop in for a coffee, cafe features contemporary art

 

Food

Old City - small windy streets, “Spaccanapoli”, watch for pickpocketing

Quartieri Spagnoli - spanish quarter, lively music and nightlife, famous margarita pizza from queen margarita

Nennella - long wait put name in, pasta e patate, classic neapolitan dish

Brandi - pizzeria

Umberto - pasta alla Genovese, a Naples specialty

Gambrinus Cafe - pastries, the sfogliatelle is Grandpa’s favorite

 

Positano

A colorful cliffside village along the Amalfi Coast.

ACCOmMODATIONS

Il San Pietro - most amazing tennis court

La Sirenuse - centrally located, lunch on the terrace is a must

Eden Rock - so charming, 5-minute walk to the beach

Various boutique hotels and bed and breakfasts

 

attractions

Music on the Rocks - live music and bars along the beach

La Scogliera - a little corner of paradise, one of the best beach clubs, book in advance!

Ceramica Assunta - handmade pottery shop

Path of Gods Hike - 3 1/2 hours plus 1 hour of steps
Begins in Agerola - need a driver to get there
Ends in Nocella - right above Positano!

Signs will direct you down to Positano - 1 hour downhill, 1000 steps, bring good shoes

 

Food

Le Tre Sorelle - on the beach serving homemade pastas, great for lunch or dinner, ask for Michael - owner of the restaurant

Chez Black - right next door in case of a wait at Sorelle

Da Adolfo - arrive by boat

Positano Hotel Buca di Bacco - also on the beach with the same view

 

Amalfi

Drive the winding seaside roads and visit the charming pastel-colored town of Amalfi.

Accommodations

Hotel Santa Caterina - beautiful hotel on the cliff, also shares my Greek name Katerina, amazing views from the terrace

Monastero Santa Rosa - originally a Dominican monastery from 17th C, above the fishing village of Conca Dei Marini

Borgo Santandrea - overlooks Conca dei Marini

Praiano - up on the mountains between Positano and Amalfi, more affordable, beach access

 

Attractions

Valle delle Ferriere - 3 hour hike, waterfalls, easily reachable from the center of Amalfi

Duomo di Amalfi - medieval Roman Catholic cathedral, dedicated to the Apostle Saint Andrew

Piazza Duomo - grab an espresso and people watch in the town square

Torre dello Ziro - 2 hour hike, old watchtower that was once used to spot pirate ships, panoramic views

Fiordo di Furore - while traveling from Amalfi towards Positano make sure to look down at the most picturesque, quaint beach in between the cliff

 

Food

Da Gemma - reservations only, open at 7

La Tonnarella - arrive by boat in Conca Dei Marini, Jackie Onassis adored this little spot

 

Ravello

3 miles of mountain roads above Amalfi and known for its cliffside gardens and vineyards. Recommend a day trip.

Accommodations

Caruso - a Belmond Hotel, former 11th-century palace set on a cliff edge 1,000ft above sea level

Villa Cimbrone Hotel - so charming, The Vuilleumier family preserves and protects the original architectural and decorative features from the 12th century

Palazzo Avino - overlooks some of the coast’s most picturesque fishing villages

Ravello has so many cute and quaint villas!

 

attractions

Villa Cimbrone Gardens

Villa Rufolo

Atrani Walk

Duomo di Ravello

Ceramiche d’Arte - beautiful ceramic pieces by Pascal, ships worldwide

The Ravello Festival - one of the oldest and most renowned festivals in Italy

Castiglione Beach - below Ravello

 

Food

Trattoria Da Cumpa’ Cosimo - great family style restaurant serving homemade pastas

Villa Cimbrone - eat on the terrace, great views

 

Capri

Pure romance. Sail around the rock formations and swim in the Blue Grotto!

Accommodations

Grand Hotel Quisisana - a Novi favorite

Excelsior Parco - 11 rooms furnished in Art Nouveau style

J.K. Place - boutique hotel, spa, and restaurant

Tiberio Palace - a few steps away from the Piazzetta

La Minerva - quaint and quiet in the center of Capri

 

Attractions

 

Food

Capri shops - Via Vittoria Emanuele, Via Camerelle, and Via le Botteghe, save your Euros for the best shopping!

Piazzetta - heart of the town

Gardens of Tiberius - view the Capri’s dramatic Faraglioni, rock formations

Blue Grotto - sea cave with the most illuminating blue reflection

La Fontelina - beach club

Da Luigi Ai Faraglioni - beach club

Villa Verde - late night dancing

 

Ristorante Faraglioni - best linguine and clams you’ll ever have!


After lunch, turn right out of the restaurant - check out the cutest lemon ice stand, Limoni Di Capri

Just before the beautiful Augustus gardens stop at Hotel Luna - grab an espresso or cocktail at Capri Rooftop Lounge Bar with a view over the Faraglioni

 

Salerno

I have the best memories with my Nonna in her birthplace. We would grab an espresso and walk along the lungomare every morning and look at the coast. Then, we would go visit her sisters Zia Vera and Zia Carla and have lunch with all the cousins on Zia Carla’s terrace.

Accommodations

Hotel Montestella - great location and very affordable

If your home base is Salerno, going west along the coast you will first stop at Vietri, known for ceramic cups and plates, Maiori, known for its beaches, and then the city of Amalfi, Praiano, and Positano, respectively.

Transportation for day trips

Water taxi - fastest

Vespa - adventure like a real local

Rent a car - hope you’re a good driver!

SITA bus - stops in each village

 

attractions

Costello - castle overlooking the city

Lungomare - morning and evening walks along the promenade, Nonna’s haven

Corso Vittorio Emanuele - main shopping area

Portanova square - stop at Nettuno for brioche con gelato

Farmers market - call Zia Carla on your way!

Antica Cappelleria di Russo Anna e Russo Giosuè - amazing hats and fedoras

 

Food

Sabatino's - pizza for breakfast, just off the corso and down the stairs

Ristorante Cicirinella and Maialino Rosso - 2 doors down frome each other, same owner

Nettuno - gelato

Pantaleone - pastry shop on via mercante

Sapporito Bar - across the street for coffee

Via Roma - late night bar scene

Salumeria del Corso - great panini on the go to the train station, John recommends the mortadela

Drogheria - aperitivos and drinks on via mercante

Spuntino - seafood pasta dish

Re Gusto - my cousin Claudia’s, affordable italian street food to go

Lal Trolato - wine bar in the rotunda

La Posteria - cheese, meats, and delicious wines!

 

South of Salerno

Paestum - day trip to the Greek temples and sandy beaches

Bartolli Mozzarella Farm - Gavaretti side of the family started it


 

AMALFI Style

Pastel colors to match the pastel-colored towns

Sun hats

Linen dresses and flowy skirts

Swimsuit for the beach

Sneakers for sightseeing

 

 

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